Archive for the ‘Stripping miniatures’ Category

So, I found a way to make some great looking, very inexpensive terrain!
Do you tire of terrain simply being books under the green mat to simply make square hills?
You know you want buildings, and lots of them! Two, three and four levels, to make that table pop!
Inexpensive you say? Yes, I did!!

Here is a rundown of the components (items are purchased from Walmart, which by far is the best pricing for the components) with their prices ( in US dollars) not including tax.

Core items:
– roll of 3/4″ masking tape, .77
– Eilene’s Tacky Glue, medium size bottle, 1.77
– Foamcore sheet(s) 20″x30″ plain white, 1.98

Additional items needed:
– cutting mat
– box cutter, and spare blades
– exacto knife and spare blades
– 24″ metal ruler
– 12″ metal ruler

Now comes a bit of mathing skill. In order to maximize the amount of buildings that can be made from the sheet, grab a bit or scrap paper.

The sheet is 20″x30″, and by doing the math, I can create (2) two floor buildings with an 7″x10″ base floor footprint and the second floor being 5″x10″.
Factoring the full size of the sheet, you will make cuts on the long side, so the strips will be 20″ long, by the various widths to make walls and floors.
Subtracting the two floor sizes from the full sheet width, you are left with 18″. Because I am making the walls 3″ high, you are then left with six 3″ strips.

Each of the strips are 20″ long.

Proceed to make the floor pieces by cutting the 7″ and the 5″ sections in half, they are then the sizes of 7″x10 and 5″x10″.

To make the walls, measure the 3″ strips into pieces that are 6.5″ long. This will give you three wall pieces, with one inch left. Repeat 2x for a total of six pieces (four are needed for each building)

To make the front of the building ( the 10″ side) cut one 20″ strip in half. This makes the front wall for each of the building floors. Repeat twice for a total of four front walls, one for each level of the building.

Proceed to assembly.

Place one floor in front of you and glue the wall onto the edge. Follow the flying with taping to reinforce the edge.

Repeat process as many time as necessary to build each of the levels, and reinforce the joints.

Then, add the smaller, second floor on top of the first floor. Glue the two together, reinforcing the joint with tape yet again.

Repeat as necessary to make the building the final size.

Cover all foam showing with tape before priming at all to prevent the foam from being eaten by spray paint, and to create smooth edges.

Cut windows from the foam as you see fit with a square base as a template to ensure continuity and straight lines when making these. Ensure these are taped up as well after the fact.

Prime as you wish.

Fini!

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Images all used without permission from Forgeworld WebsiteGW, FW, Forgeworld.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/New_Stuff/TARTAROS_PATTERN_TERMINATOR_ARMOUR.html

Working Conversion List for Painting

Posted: March 26, 2012 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, Wyrd Miniatures
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BASES
Ceramite White
Averland Sunset (Was Iyanden Darksun)
Jokaero Orange (Was Macharius Solar Orange)
Mephiston Red ( Was Mechrite Red)
Khorne Red (Was Scab Red)
Naggaroth Night
Daemonette Hide ( Was Hormagaunt Purple)
Kantor Blue (On chart labeled as Necron Abyss & Regal Blue)
Macragge Blue (Was Mordian Blue)
Caledon Sky (Was Enchanted Blue)
Stegadon Scale Green
Incubi Darkness
Caliban Green (Labeled as Dark Angels Green and Orkhide Shade)
Waaaagh! Flesh
Castellan Green (Was Catachan Green)
Death World Forest (Was Gretchin Green)
Zandri Dust
Steel Legion Drab ( Was Steel Legion Drab)
Bugmans Glow
Ratskin Flesh (Was Dwarf Flesh)
Mournfang Brown (Was Bestial Brown)
XV-88
Rhinox Hide (Was Scorched Brown)
Dryad Bark
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Was Adeptus Battlegrey)
Celestus Grey (Was Astronomican Grey)
Abaddon Black (Was Chaos Black)
Rakarth flesh (Was Dheneb Stone)
The Fang (Was Fenris Grey)
Screamer Pink ( Was Warlock Purple)
Leadblecher (metal) (Was Boltgun Metal)
Balthasar Gold (metal)
Screaming Bell (metal)
Warplock Bronze (metal) (Was Tin Bitz)

LAYER
White Scar (Was Skull White)
Yriel Yellow ( Was Yriel Yellow)
Flash gitz yellow (Was Sunburst Yellow)
Troll Slayer Orange (Was Blazing Orange)
Fire Dragon Bright
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Was Blood Red)
Wild Rider Red
Wazdakka Red (Was Red Gore)
Squig Orange
Xereus Purple (Was Liche Purple)
Genestealer Purple
Warpfiend Grey
Slaanesh Grey
Alaitoc blue
Hoeth blue
Altdorf Guard Blue (Was Ultramarines Blue)
Calgar blue
Teclis blue
Lothern blue (Was Ice Blue)
Sotek green (Was Hawk Turquoise)
Temple guard blue
Kabalite green
Sybarite green
Warpstone glow (Was Snot Green)
Moot green (Was Scorpion Green)
Warboss green (Was Goblin Green)
Skarsnik green
Loren Forest
Straken green
Nurgling green (Was Rotting Flesh)
Elysian green (Was Camo Green)
Ogryn camo
Ushabti Bone (Was Bleached Bone)
Screaming skull
Tallarn sand (Was Desert Yellow)
Karak stone (Was Kommando Khaki)
Cadian fleshstone (Was Tallarn Flesh)
Kislev Flesh (Was Elf Flesh)
Bestigor Flesh
Ungor Flesh
Skrag Brown (Was Vermin Brown)
Deathclaw Brown
Tau Light Ochre
Balor Brown (Was Snakebite Leather)
Zamesi Desert (Was Bubonic Brown)
Doombull Brown
Tuskigor Fur
Gorthor Brown
Baneblade Brown
Dawnstone
Administratum grey
Eshin grey
Dark reaper
Thunderhawk blue
Skavenblight dinge
Stormvermin fur
Ulthuan grey
Pallid wych flesh
Russ grey
Fenrisian grey (Was Space Wolves Grey)
Pink horror
Emperors Children
Ironbreaker (metal)
Runefang steel (metal) (Was Mithril Silver)
Gehennas gold(metal) (Was Shining Gold)
Auric Armour(metal) (Was Burnished Gold)
Hashut Copper(metal) (Was Dwarf Bronze)
Sycorax Bronze(metal)
Brass Scorpion(metal)
Runelord Brass(metal)

SHADES
Casandora Yellow
Fuegan Orange
Carroburg Crimson (Was Baal Red)
Druchii Violet (Was Leviathan Purple)
Drakenhof Nightshade
Coelia greenshade
Biel-tan green
Athonian camoshade
Seraphim Sepia (Was Gryphonne Sepia)
Reikland Fleshshade (Was Ogryn Flesh)
Agrax earthshade (Was Devlan Mud)
Nuln Oil (Was Badab Black)
Biel-Tan Green (Was Thraka Green)

DRY
Praxeti White
Hexos palesun
Kindleflame
Lucius Lilac
Etherium blue
Skink blue
Hellion green
Underhive ash
Eldar Flesh
Tyrant Shell
Terminatus stone
Longbeard grey
Changling pink
Necron Compound
Golden Griffon

GLAZE
Lamenters yellow
Waywatcher Green
Guilliman blue
Bloodletter

TEXTURE
Mourn Mountain snow
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Eath
Astrogranite
Armageddon Dust
Lustrian Undergrowth

TECHNICAL
Lahmian Medium
‘Ard coat
Imperial Primer
Liquid Green stuff

Redoing an entire paint line? Really?

Posted: March 26, 2012 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, Wyrd Miniatures
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All right, I’ve been following this whole paint change from GW, from their blog posts to the listing and the official “conversion chart” from White Dwarf 388 that they have posted.

Quite amusing that there is one error on it I found quite quickly, unless the labels are going to be colour coded (base, shade etc) and colours named the same when they are the base and shades, as both Regal Blue and Moridian Blue are renamed Kantor Blue.

There are a total of 145 colours, with bases, layers, shades, glazes, textures and technical. Check out the list I have found repetitively online!
BASES

Ceramite White
Averland Sun
Jokaero Orange
Mephiston Red
Khorne Red
Naggaroth Night
Daemonette Hide
Kantor Blue
Macragge Blue
Caledon Sky
Stegadon scale green
Incubi Darkness
Caliban Green
Waaaagh! Flesh
Castellan green
Death world forest
Zandri dust
Steel Legion Drab
Bugmans Glow
Ratskin Flesh
Mournfang brown
XV-88
Rhinox hide
Dryad bark
Mechanicus standard grey
Celestus grey
Abaddon Black (the only black in the range)
Rakarth flesh
The Fang
Screamer pink
Leadblecher (metal)
Balthasar Gold (metal)
Screaming Bell (metal)
Warplock brown (metal)
LAYER

White Scar
Yriel Yellow
Flash gitz yellow
Troll slayer orange
Fire dragon bright
Evil sunz scarlet
Wild Rider red
Wazdakka red
Squig Orange
Xereus Purple
Genestealer Purple
Warpfiend Grey
Slaanesh Grey
Alaitoc blue
Hoeth blue
Altdorf guard blue
Calgar blue
Teclis blue
Lothern blue
Sotek green
Temple guard blue
Kabalite green
Sybarite green
Warpstone glow
Moot green
Warboss green
Skarsnik green
Loren Forest
Straken green
Nurgling green
Elysian green
Ogryn camo
Ushabti Bone
Screaming skull
Tallarn sand
Karak stone
Cadian fleshstone
Kislev Flesh
Bestigor flesh
Ungor flesh
Skrag brown
Deathclaw brown
Tau light Ochre
Balor brown
Zamesi brown
Doombull brown
Tuskigor fur
Gorthor Brown
Baneblade Brown
Dawnstone
Administratum grey
Eshin grey
Dark reaper
Thunderhawk blue
Skavenblight dinge
Stormvermin fur
Ulthuan grey
Pallid wych flesh
Russ grey
Fenrisian grey
Pink horror
Emperors Children
Ironbreaker (metal)
Runefang steel (metal)
Gehennas gold(metal)
Auric Armour(metal)
Hashut Copper(metal)
Sycorax Bronze(metal)
Brass Scorpion(metal)
Runelord Brass(metal)
SHADES

Casandora Yellow
Fuegan Orange
Carroburg Crimson
Druchii Violet
Drakenhof Nightshade
Coelia greenshade
Biel-tan green
Athonian camoshade
Seraphim Sepia
Reikland fleshshade
Agrax earthshade (Devlan Mud)
Nuln Oil
DRY

Praxeti White
Hexos palesun
Kindleflame
Lucius Lilac
Etherium blue
Skink blue
Hellion green
Underhive ash
Eldar Flesh
Tyrant Shell
Terminatus stone
Longbeard grey
Changling pink
Necron Compound
Golden Griffon

GLAZE

Lamenters yellow
Waywatcher Green
Guilliman blue
Bloodletter
TEXTURE

Mourn Mountain snow
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Eath
Astrogranite
Armageddon Dust
Lustrian Undergrowth
TECHNICAL

Lahmian Medium
‘Ard coat
Imperial Primer
Liquid Green stuff

Very, very funny, in my opinion. So, what is your take on the redo of the line?

I haven’t been able to paint recently. School, hospital visits, surgery for my fiancee, and just general distractions have been in my way each and every time that I’ve tried to sit and paint, I have been WAY too easily distracted. Talk about frustrating!

Tell me people, what do you do when you absoutely need to paint, or you’re painting on a deadline?

After adding the previous post, I realized a couple of things.

 

1. Holy crap, I haven’t updated the blog in forever.

2.I  seriously need to find the information and write the third part of the photographing miniatures series.

3. I need to remember what I was planning on doing for the third part of that series.

4. Did I mention it had been forever since I’d updated?

Photographing Miniatures Series Part 2, Essential Equipment

Posted: January 5, 2011 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, Wyrd Miniatures
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Now that we’ve discussed the primary piece of equipment that will be the key to great miniature photography, the camera, there are a few more items of importance as well.

 

Tripod

 

There are a lot of different types available but a mini, or flexible tripod is the ideal option here.  These two types give you the best chance of getting to the right height when working on a table taking your photos.  Various brands are available, and they usually cost less than $30.00.  Now mind you, if you’d rather use a sandbag or something similar, that’s fine too. Basically we are looking for something that will keep the camera steady so you can get good crisp shots without the worry that shaking may ruin the photos.  Some camera kits may come with one, or some photo studio kits available may come with one as well, so if you don’t have one, shop about and see if there’s something else that you may like that a tripod may be included with.

 

Memory Card and Reader

 

For most cameras this is the standard storage device that you will use.  Some cameras have compact flash cards instead, but have the same function, store images for you to retrieve at a later time.  Some computers and laptops have various forms of card readers built into them.  If you have one built into the computer you’re using, the USB card reader is unnecessary.  I suggest using the built in reader (if applicable) or a USB card reader rather than plugging the camera into the computer via USB cable (otherwise known as tethering) for several reasons:

 

–       Less drain on the camera battery (Key if you camera uses alkaline batteries.)

–       Speed.  You can work faster from the card directly instead of having to go through the camera itself.

–       Ease. If you fill up cards while shooting, you’re already removing this.  It’s also much easier to copy images and delete the images from the card when working directly with it. On average, you will save anywhere from 10-45 minutes or more depending on the number of images you’re removing from the card. Also facilitates cleaning the card out afterwards, as you can simply highlight them and delete them rather than go through your camera to do so.

–       If you’re using a built in card reader, you don’t have to install any software.

 

They are fairly straightforward to use, as you follow a couple simple steps to have access to your images.  Generally you remove the SD card, following any manufacturer specific directions for removing it from your camera, insert it into the reader before you insert it into the USB port, then plug into your computer or laptop USB port.  In no time at all you will have access to your images via a menu on your screen.  With using a card reader, it is just better practice to put the chip into the device and then plug it in, and reversing the process to remove it, after ensuring you shut it down via the “Safely Remove Hardware” button that will show up on the right side of the toolbar (small icon with a USB plug image and a green checkmark). Make sure to follow the proper steps to remove it from your system so you don’t possibly inflict damage to the SD card, reader or computer.

 

Light Box & Lights

 

When it comes to a light box there are several different options available.  You could purchase one online, such as this great combo kit from Think Geek ( http://www.thinkgeek.com/electronics/cameras-photography/a205/ ) find plans to make your own (easily searchable in any good search engine, there’s lots of versions available if you want to try your hand at this) or borrow one if you’ve got a friend that happens to have one. Just remember when constructing it that it needs to be made of a thin white material, be it vellum, light cloth, or something similar.  There are advantages and disadvantages to whichever of these you choose, as well as personal preference, and budget that will ultimately help you make the final decision.  Effectively they all provide the same thing, a small space that you control the conditions within so you can get the best images of your miniatures possible.

Lights are also important as well.  Ideally, a small pair of lights that will allow you to direct the majority of its beam at the sides of the light box, effectively making the light box glow.  These don’t have to be huge lights that regular photographers use when doing shoots with models, just small, compact white lights. Remember you’re trying to light up the box and produce a glow within the box that will show your model in the most favorable light.  Yellow or another colour will tint the box unfavorably, causing the colours not to be accurate.  Either the bulbs that show “real colour” or standard white are the best options.  Remember that small lights tend to get hot very fast, so if you’re doing multiple shoots, they should be turned off between miniatures.

 

Misc.

 

There are a lot of small things you should have as well, some may even seem insignificant when mentioned, but they help a great deal in the long run.  Some of these are just a recommendation to facilitate your experience in miniature photography.

 

Power Strip- Because you’ll be moving the lights around a bit to get them in the best spot, a power strip to work from is handy, giving you extra room and helping keep all the cords in one area, making the area less likely to be at tripping hazard.

 

Backdrop Material- Because the models you photograph vary as much as the weather, various colours of material to use for backdrops are a must.  A good selection of backdrop colours include: Black, White, Red, Blue, Green, and Grey.  You can make your own in Photoshop and print it out, such as clouds or another type, but inexpensive pieces of material really work well. Solid colours are best, so you don’t detract from the model, and they should average about 24” wide x30” long.  It should have a bit of weight to it, especially in the case of a light colour, so light doesn’t go through it.  When you’re not using these, either carefully fold them or roll them up and store them in a safe spot.  Wrinkled backdrops tend to have uneven colouration when lit, and can detract from the model itself.

 

A large well lit area to work in.  Natural light is a wonderful asset but not necessary for good photography when using a light box and lights.  If you’re working in an area with little natural light, you may simply need to add a bit more to get a great situation.  It’s much easier to add light than it is to remove it, if you are working with a combination of natural light and artificial. Having a large area to work in allows you to get the best possible light for your photography, as you have more room to work with, whether you need to add more lights or adjust how far away from the box they are.

 

In general, a few minor things to point out to help avoid frustration.  Remember light colours reflect light and dark colours absorb it.  Miniatures varnished with matte varnish are ideal candidates to photograph.  Gloss varnish will make it harder to get good angles without a lot of reflections and shiny spots.  Boxes can be your best friend.  You can use boxes under the backdrop to elevate the model, if need be, to the same level as the camera on the tripod.  Just make sure the box doesn’t have writing that will show through once the area is lit.

 

Next up: Step by Step Photos of Setting up a Shoot.