Archive for the ‘Privateer Press’ Category

Did you ever realize, that no matter where you are (for the majority of the US) one can quite easily utilize spray can primer quite effectively without any special tools or items other than a simple can of primer (and possibly a grip attachment for extended priming)?

Rather than choosing to spend a few hundred dollars on an airbrush and compressor, or resorting to brush on primer (GW Imperial Primer or Gesso, which is a horrible option all together)to get a figure large or small primed. Why not just use regular old spray primer (Army Painter,  P3 or other reliable product) and achieve the perfect results.

Now mind you I’m not disproving of an airbrush, as it’s just another tool to the repertoire, but I have heard a silly statement of purchasing one simply to prime models because of an inability to deal with the weather conditions. Myself, I do have an airbrush, and compressor. It is an investment though, and a tool that  I am using on large models, and new weathering techniques, not just for priming. With large surface models I have, such as the Tau Manta, Red Scorpions Thunderhawk, Maurader Bomber, and a few other projects.

A few tips and tricks that helped me get the perfect prime on a model time after time..

1. Pay attention to the time of day, and the weather. This can’t be stressed enough really. With some practice you can easily prime in a covered location even while it’s raining to beat the band. It’s all about knowing the tolerances of your primer, and when it’s best used. Dry hot days can be some of the worst priming weather ever, no matter what you may be led to believe. Ideal conditions are an afternoon of warm weather, preferably once the sun has started to set.

2. Pay attention to where your models are stored before priming. Don’t take models that have been stored in cold locations and bring them outside and immediately start priming them… metal models especially. These sweat and have a fine layer of condensation which prevents the proper adhesion of primer to model, and encourages problems. Allow models to come to room temperature, dependent on were you are priming. With the models at temperature for where they are primed, this creates the best possible environment to have priming work exactly how it should.

3. Use quality primer. I am not saying spend twenty dollars a can on primer, but make sure, with a test model that it’s proper conditions and the primer works properly. Some primers just don’t work properly on miniatures, there’s no bones about it. Don’t use primers designed for plastic on plastic figures. While it’s a theoretically sound idea, plastic primers are designed for items such as chairs, tables and toys. Items with large flat surfaces that the paint needs to bond to. When it comes to plastic figures, this particular formation of paint has a tendency to clog details, and make models blob like after priming. It’s also nearly impossible to remove from the ruined models as it bonds with it, so products such as simple green don’t really remove that type of paint in relation to others it normally works on without any issues.

4.

So, I found a way to make some great looking, very inexpensive terrain!
Do you tire of terrain simply being books under the green mat to simply make square hills?
You know you want buildings, and lots of them! Two, three and four levels, to make that table pop!
Inexpensive you say? Yes, I did!!

Here is a rundown of the components (items are purchased from Walmart, which by far is the best pricing for the components) with their prices ( in US dollars) not including tax.

Core items:
– roll of 3/4″ masking tape, .77
– Eilene’s Tacky Glue, medium size bottle, 1.77
– Foamcore sheet(s) 20″x30″ plain white, 1.98

Additional items needed:
– cutting mat
– box cutter, and spare blades
– exacto knife and spare blades
– 24″ metal ruler
– 12″ metal ruler

Now comes a bit of mathing skill. In order to maximize the amount of buildings that can be made from the sheet, grab a bit or scrap paper.

The sheet is 20″x30″, and by doing the math, I can create (2) two floor buildings with an 7″x10″ base floor footprint and the second floor being 5″x10″.
Factoring the full size of the sheet, you will make cuts on the long side, so the strips will be 20″ long, by the various widths to make walls and floors.
Subtracting the two floor sizes from the full sheet width, you are left with 18″. Because I am making the walls 3″ high, you are then left with six 3″ strips.

Each of the strips are 20″ long.

Proceed to make the floor pieces by cutting the 7″ and the 5″ sections in half, they are then the sizes of 7″x10 and 5″x10″.

To make the walls, measure the 3″ strips into pieces that are 6.5″ long. This will give you three wall pieces, with one inch left. Repeat 2x for a total of six pieces (four are needed for each building)

To make the front of the building ( the 10″ side) cut one 20″ strip in half. This makes the front wall for each of the building floors. Repeat twice for a total of four front walls, one for each level of the building.

Proceed to assembly.

Place one floor in front of you and glue the wall onto the edge. Follow the flying with taping to reinforce the edge.

Repeat process as many time as necessary to build each of the levels, and reinforce the joints.

Then, add the smaller, second floor on top of the first floor. Glue the two together, reinforcing the joint with tape yet again.

Repeat as necessary to make the building the final size.

Cover all foam showing with tape before priming at all to prevent the foam from being eaten by spray paint, and to create smooth edges.

Cut windows from the foam as you see fit with a square base as a template to ensure continuity and straight lines when making these. Ensure these are taped up as well after the fact.

Prime as you wish.

Fini!

Images all used without permission from Forgeworld WebsiteGW, FW, Forgeworld.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/New_Stuff/TARTAROS_PATTERN_TERMINATOR_ARMOUR.html

Working Conversion List for Painting

Posted: March 26, 2012 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, Wyrd Miniatures
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

BASES
Ceramite White
Averland Sunset (Was Iyanden Darksun)
Jokaero Orange (Was Macharius Solar Orange)
Mephiston Red ( Was Mechrite Red)
Khorne Red (Was Scab Red)
Naggaroth Night
Daemonette Hide ( Was Hormagaunt Purple)
Kantor Blue (On chart labeled as Necron Abyss & Regal Blue)
Macragge Blue (Was Mordian Blue)
Caledon Sky (Was Enchanted Blue)
Stegadon Scale Green
Incubi Darkness
Caliban Green (Labeled as Dark Angels Green and Orkhide Shade)
Waaaagh! Flesh
Castellan Green (Was Catachan Green)
Death World Forest (Was Gretchin Green)
Zandri Dust
Steel Legion Drab ( Was Steel Legion Drab)
Bugmans Glow
Ratskin Flesh (Was Dwarf Flesh)
Mournfang Brown (Was Bestial Brown)
XV-88
Rhinox Hide (Was Scorched Brown)
Dryad Bark
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Was Adeptus Battlegrey)
Celestus Grey (Was Astronomican Grey)
Abaddon Black (Was Chaos Black)
Rakarth flesh (Was Dheneb Stone)
The Fang (Was Fenris Grey)
Screamer Pink ( Was Warlock Purple)
Leadblecher (metal) (Was Boltgun Metal)
Balthasar Gold (metal)
Screaming Bell (metal)
Warplock Bronze (metal) (Was Tin Bitz)

LAYER
White Scar (Was Skull White)
Yriel Yellow ( Was Yriel Yellow)
Flash gitz yellow (Was Sunburst Yellow)
Troll Slayer Orange (Was Blazing Orange)
Fire Dragon Bright
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Was Blood Red)
Wild Rider Red
Wazdakka Red (Was Red Gore)
Squig Orange
Xereus Purple (Was Liche Purple)
Genestealer Purple
Warpfiend Grey
Slaanesh Grey
Alaitoc blue
Hoeth blue
Altdorf Guard Blue (Was Ultramarines Blue)
Calgar blue
Teclis blue
Lothern blue (Was Ice Blue)
Sotek green (Was Hawk Turquoise)
Temple guard blue
Kabalite green
Sybarite green
Warpstone glow (Was Snot Green)
Moot green (Was Scorpion Green)
Warboss green (Was Goblin Green)
Skarsnik green
Loren Forest
Straken green
Nurgling green (Was Rotting Flesh)
Elysian green (Was Camo Green)
Ogryn camo
Ushabti Bone (Was Bleached Bone)
Screaming skull
Tallarn sand (Was Desert Yellow)
Karak stone (Was Kommando Khaki)
Cadian fleshstone (Was Tallarn Flesh)
Kislev Flesh (Was Elf Flesh)
Bestigor Flesh
Ungor Flesh
Skrag Brown (Was Vermin Brown)
Deathclaw Brown
Tau Light Ochre
Balor Brown (Was Snakebite Leather)
Zamesi Desert (Was Bubonic Brown)
Doombull Brown
Tuskigor Fur
Gorthor Brown
Baneblade Brown
Dawnstone
Administratum grey
Eshin grey
Dark reaper
Thunderhawk blue
Skavenblight dinge
Stormvermin fur
Ulthuan grey
Pallid wych flesh
Russ grey
Fenrisian grey (Was Space Wolves Grey)
Pink horror
Emperors Children
Ironbreaker (metal)
Runefang steel (metal) (Was Mithril Silver)
Gehennas gold(metal) (Was Shining Gold)
Auric Armour(metal) (Was Burnished Gold)
Hashut Copper(metal) (Was Dwarf Bronze)
Sycorax Bronze(metal)
Brass Scorpion(metal)
Runelord Brass(metal)

SHADES
Casandora Yellow
Fuegan Orange
Carroburg Crimson (Was Baal Red)
Druchii Violet (Was Leviathan Purple)
Drakenhof Nightshade
Coelia greenshade
Biel-tan green
Athonian camoshade
Seraphim Sepia (Was Gryphonne Sepia)
Reikland Fleshshade (Was Ogryn Flesh)
Agrax earthshade (Was Devlan Mud)
Nuln Oil (Was Badab Black)
Biel-Tan Green (Was Thraka Green)

DRY
Praxeti White
Hexos palesun
Kindleflame
Lucius Lilac
Etherium blue
Skink blue
Hellion green
Underhive ash
Eldar Flesh
Tyrant Shell
Terminatus stone
Longbeard grey
Changling pink
Necron Compound
Golden Griffon

GLAZE
Lamenters yellow
Waywatcher Green
Guilliman blue
Bloodletter

TEXTURE
Mourn Mountain snow
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Eath
Astrogranite
Armageddon Dust
Lustrian Undergrowth

TECHNICAL
Lahmian Medium
‘Ard coat
Imperial Primer
Liquid Green stuff

Redoing an entire paint line? Really?

Posted: March 26, 2012 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, Wyrd Miniatures
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

All right, I’ve been following this whole paint change from GW, from their blog posts to the listing and the official “conversion chart” from White Dwarf 388 that they have posted.

Quite amusing that there is one error on it I found quite quickly, unless the labels are going to be colour coded (base, shade etc) and colours named the same when they are the base and shades, as both Regal Blue and Moridian Blue are renamed Kantor Blue.

There are a total of 145 colours, with bases, layers, shades, glazes, textures and technical. Check out the list I have found repetitively online!
BASES

Ceramite White
Averland Sun
Jokaero Orange
Mephiston Red
Khorne Red
Naggaroth Night
Daemonette Hide
Kantor Blue
Macragge Blue
Caledon Sky
Stegadon scale green
Incubi Darkness
Caliban Green
Waaaagh! Flesh
Castellan green
Death world forest
Zandri dust
Steel Legion Drab
Bugmans Glow
Ratskin Flesh
Mournfang brown
XV-88
Rhinox hide
Dryad bark
Mechanicus standard grey
Celestus grey
Abaddon Black (the only black in the range)
Rakarth flesh
The Fang
Screamer pink
Leadblecher (metal)
Balthasar Gold (metal)
Screaming Bell (metal)
Warplock brown (metal)
LAYER

White Scar
Yriel Yellow
Flash gitz yellow
Troll slayer orange
Fire dragon bright
Evil sunz scarlet
Wild Rider red
Wazdakka red
Squig Orange
Xereus Purple
Genestealer Purple
Warpfiend Grey
Slaanesh Grey
Alaitoc blue
Hoeth blue
Altdorf guard blue
Calgar blue
Teclis blue
Lothern blue
Sotek green
Temple guard blue
Kabalite green
Sybarite green
Warpstone glow
Moot green
Warboss green
Skarsnik green
Loren Forest
Straken green
Nurgling green
Elysian green
Ogryn camo
Ushabti Bone
Screaming skull
Tallarn sand
Karak stone
Cadian fleshstone
Kislev Flesh
Bestigor flesh
Ungor flesh
Skrag brown
Deathclaw brown
Tau light Ochre
Balor brown
Zamesi brown
Doombull brown
Tuskigor fur
Gorthor Brown
Baneblade Brown
Dawnstone
Administratum grey
Eshin grey
Dark reaper
Thunderhawk blue
Skavenblight dinge
Stormvermin fur
Ulthuan grey
Pallid wych flesh
Russ grey
Fenrisian grey
Pink horror
Emperors Children
Ironbreaker (metal)
Runefang steel (metal)
Gehennas gold(metal)
Auric Armour(metal)
Hashut Copper(metal)
Sycorax Bronze(metal)
Brass Scorpion(metal)
Runelord Brass(metal)
SHADES

Casandora Yellow
Fuegan Orange
Carroburg Crimson
Druchii Violet
Drakenhof Nightshade
Coelia greenshade
Biel-tan green
Athonian camoshade
Seraphim Sepia
Reikland fleshshade
Agrax earthshade (Devlan Mud)
Nuln Oil
DRY

Praxeti White
Hexos palesun
Kindleflame
Lucius Lilac
Etherium blue
Skink blue
Hellion green
Underhive ash
Eldar Flesh
Tyrant Shell
Terminatus stone
Longbeard grey
Changling pink
Necron Compound
Golden Griffon

GLAZE

Lamenters yellow
Waywatcher Green
Guilliman blue
Bloodletter
TEXTURE

Mourn Mountain snow
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Eath
Astrogranite
Armageddon Dust
Lustrian Undergrowth
TECHNICAL

Lahmian Medium
‘Ard coat
Imperial Primer
Liquid Green stuff

Very, very funny, in my opinion. So, what is your take on the redo of the line?

I haven’t been able to paint recently. School, hospital visits, surgery for my fiancee, and just general distractions have been in my way each and every time that I’ve tried to sit and paint, I have been WAY too easily distracted. Talk about frustrating!

Tell me people, what do you do when you absoutely need to paint, or you’re painting on a deadline?

After adding the previous post, I realized a couple of things.

 

1. Holy crap, I haven’t updated the blog in forever.

2.I  seriously need to find the information and write the third part of the photographing miniatures series.

3. I need to remember what I was planning on doing for the third part of that series.

4. Did I mention it had been forever since I’d updated?