Did you ever realize, that no matter where you are (for the majority of the US) one can quite easily utilize spray can primer quite effectively without any special tools or items other than a simple can of primer (and possibly a grip attachment for extended priming)?

Rather than choosing to spend a few hundred dollars on an airbrush and compressor, or resorting to brush on primer (GW Imperial Primer or Gesso, which is a horrible option all together)to get a figure large or small primed. Why not just use regular old spray primer (Army Painter,  P3 or other reliable product) and achieve the perfect results.

Now mind you I’m not disproving of an airbrush, as it’s just another tool to the repertoire, but I have heard a silly statement of purchasing one simply to prime models because of an inability to deal with the weather conditions. Myself, I do have an airbrush, and compressor. It is an investment though, and a tool that  I am using on large models, and new weathering techniques, not just for priming. With large surface models I have, such as the Tau Manta, Red Scorpions Thunderhawk, Maurader Bomber, and a few other projects.

A few tips and tricks that helped me get the perfect prime on a model time after time..

1. Pay attention to the time of day, and the weather. This can’t be stressed enough really. With some practice you can easily prime in a covered location even while it’s raining to beat the band. It’s all about knowing the tolerances of your primer, and when it’s best used. Dry hot days can be some of the worst priming weather ever, no matter what you may be led to believe. Ideal conditions are an afternoon of warm weather, preferably once the sun has started to set.

2. Pay attention to where your models are stored before priming. Don’t take models that have been stored in cold locations and bring them outside and immediately start priming them… metal models especially. These sweat and have a fine layer of condensation which prevents the proper adhesion of primer to model, and encourages problems. Allow models to come to room temperature, dependent on were you are priming. With the models at temperature for where they are primed, this creates the best possible environment to have priming work exactly how it should.

3. Use quality primer. I am not saying spend twenty dollars a can on primer, but make sure, with a test model that it’s proper conditions and the primer works properly. Some primers just don’t work properly on miniatures, there’s no bones about it. Don’t use primers designed for plastic on plastic figures. While it’s a theoretically sound idea, plastic primers are designed for items such as chairs, tables and toys. Items with large flat surfaces that the paint needs to bond to. When it comes to plastic figures, this particular formation of paint has a tendency to clog details, and make models blob like after priming. It’s also nearly impossible to remove from the ruined models as it bonds with it, so products such as simple green don’t really remove that type of paint in relation to others it normally works on without any issues.

4.

Advertisements

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s