Archive for the ‘Forge World’ Category

Did you ever realize, that no matter where you are (for the majority of the US) one can quite easily utilize spray can primer quite effectively without any special tools or items other than a simple can of primer (and possibly a grip attachment for extended priming)?

Rather than choosing to spend a few hundred dollars on an airbrush and compressor, or resorting to brush on primer (GW Imperial Primer or Gesso, which is a horrible option all together)to get a figure large or small primed. Why not just use regular old spray primer (Army Painter,  P3 or other reliable product) and achieve the perfect results.

Now mind you I’m not disproving of an airbrush, as it’s just another tool to the repertoire, but I have heard a silly statement of purchasing one simply to prime models because of an inability to deal with the weather conditions. Myself, I do have an airbrush, and compressor. It is an investment though, and a tool that¬† I am using on large models, and new weathering techniques, not just for priming. With large surface models I have, such as the Tau Manta, Red Scorpions Thunderhawk, Maurader Bomber, and a few other projects.

A few tips and tricks that helped me get the perfect prime on a model time after time..

1. Pay attention to the time of day, and the weather. This can’t be stressed enough really. With some practice you can easily prime in a covered location even while it’s raining to beat the band. It’s all about knowing the tolerances of your primer, and when it’s best used. Dry hot days can be some of the worst priming weather ever, no matter what you may be led to believe. Ideal conditions are an afternoon of warm weather, preferably once the sun has started to set.

2. Pay attention to where your models are stored before priming. Don’t take models that have been stored in cold locations and bring them outside and immediately start priming them… metal models especially. These sweat and have a fine layer of condensation which prevents the proper adhesion of primer to model, and encourages problems. Allow models to come to room temperature, dependent on were you are priming. With the models at temperature for where they are primed, this creates the best possible environment to have priming work exactly how it should.

3. Use quality primer. I am not saying spend twenty dollars a can on primer, but make sure, with a test model that it’s proper conditions and the primer works properly. Some primers just don’t work properly on miniatures, there’s no bones about it. Don’t use primers designed for plastic on plastic figures. While it’s a theoretically sound idea, plastic primers are designed for items such as chairs, tables and toys. Items with large flat surfaces that the paint needs to bond to. When it comes to plastic figures, this particular formation of paint has a tendency to clog details, and make models blob like after priming. It’s also nearly impossible to remove from the ruined models as it bonds with it, so products such as simple green don’t really remove that type of paint in relation to others it normally works on without any issues.

4.

Advertisements

So, I found a way to make some great looking, very inexpensive terrain!
Do you tire of terrain simply being books under the green mat to simply make square hills?
You know you want buildings, and lots of them! Two, three and four levels, to make that table pop!
Inexpensive you say? Yes, I did!!

Here is a rundown of the components (items are purchased from Walmart, which by far is the best pricing for the components) with their prices ( in US dollars) not including tax.

Core items:
– roll of 3/4″ masking tape, .77
– Eilene’s Tacky Glue, medium size bottle, 1.77
– Foamcore sheet(s) 20″x30″ plain white, 1.98

Additional items needed:
– cutting mat
– box cutter, and spare blades
– exacto knife and spare blades
– 24″ metal ruler
– 12″ metal ruler

Now comes a bit of mathing skill. In order to maximize the amount of buildings that can be made from the sheet, grab a bit or scrap paper.

The sheet is 20″x30″, and by doing the math, I can create (2) two floor buildings with an 7″x10″ base floor footprint and the second floor being 5″x10″.
Factoring the full size of the sheet, you will make cuts on the long side, so the strips will be 20″ long, by the various widths to make walls and floors.
Subtracting the two floor sizes from the full sheet width, you are left with 18″. Because I am making the walls 3″ high, you are then left with six 3″ strips.

Each of the strips are 20″ long.

Proceed to make the floor pieces by cutting the 7″ and the 5″ sections in half, they are then the sizes of 7″x10 and 5″x10″.

To make the walls, measure the 3″ strips into pieces that are 6.5″ long. This will give you three wall pieces, with one inch left. Repeat 2x for a total of six pieces (four are needed for each building)

To make the front of the building ( the 10″ side) cut one 20″ strip in half. This makes the front wall for each of the building floors. Repeat twice for a total of four front walls, one for each level of the building.

Proceed to assembly.

Place one floor in front of you and glue the wall onto the edge. Follow the flying with taping to reinforce the edge.

Repeat process as many time as necessary to build each of the levels, and reinforce the joints.

Then, add the smaller, second floor on top of the first floor. Glue the two together, reinforcing the joint with tape yet again.

Repeat as necessary to make the building the final size.

Cover all foam showing with tape before priming at all to prevent the foam from being eaten by spray paint, and to create smooth edges.

Cut windows from the foam as you see fit with a square base as a template to ensure continuity and straight lines when making these. Ensure these are taped up as well after the fact.

Prime as you wish.

Fini!

Images all used without permission from Forgeworld WebsiteGW, FW, Forgeworld.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/New_Stuff/TARTAROS_PATTERN_TERMINATOR_ARMOUR.html