Archive for the ‘Warhammer’ Category

Did you ever realize, that no matter where you are (for the majority of the US) one can quite easily utilize spray can primer quite effectively without any special tools or items other than a simple can of primer (and possibly a grip attachment for extended priming)?

Rather than choosing to spend a few hundred dollars on an airbrush and compressor, or resorting to brush on primer (GW Imperial Primer or Gesso, which is a horrible option all together)to get a figure large or small primed. Why not just use regular old spray primer (Army Painter,  P3 or other reliable product) and achieve the perfect results.

Now mind you I’m not disproving of an airbrush, as it’s just another tool to the repertoire, but I have heard a silly statement of purchasing one simply to prime models because of an inability to deal with the weather conditions. Myself, I do have an airbrush, and compressor. It is an investment though, and a tool that  I am using on large models, and new weathering techniques, not just for priming. With large surface models I have, such as the Tau Manta, Red Scorpions Thunderhawk, Maurader Bomber, and a few other projects.

A few tips and tricks that helped me get the perfect prime on a model time after time..

1. Pay attention to the time of day, and the weather. This can’t be stressed enough really. With some practice you can easily prime in a covered location even while it’s raining to beat the band. It’s all about knowing the tolerances of your primer, and when it’s best used. Dry hot days can be some of the worst priming weather ever, no matter what you may be led to believe. Ideal conditions are an afternoon of warm weather, preferably once the sun has started to set.

2. Pay attention to where your models are stored before priming. Don’t take models that have been stored in cold locations and bring them outside and immediately start priming them… metal models especially. These sweat and have a fine layer of condensation which prevents the proper adhesion of primer to model, and encourages problems. Allow models to come to room temperature, dependent on were you are priming. With the models at temperature for where they are primed, this creates the best possible environment to have priming work exactly how it should.

3. Use quality primer. I am not saying spend twenty dollars a can on primer, but make sure, with a test model that it’s proper conditions and the primer works properly. Some primers just don’t work properly on miniatures, there’s no bones about it. Don’t use primers designed for plastic on plastic figures. While it’s a theoretically sound idea, plastic primers are designed for items such as chairs, tables and toys. Items with large flat surfaces that the paint needs to bond to. When it comes to plastic figures, this particular formation of paint has a tendency to clog details, and make models blob like after priming. It’s also nearly impossible to remove from the ruined models as it bonds with it, so products such as simple green don’t really remove that type of paint in relation to others it normally works on without any issues.


I have finally had a chance to test out the new line of dropper bottle paints, produced by none other than Army Painter. I have been patiently awaiting their arrival at the lgs, as I was quite curious what it would hold.
Upon looking at them and their matching primers, I have to say, I’m impressed. They are indeed spot on colour matches, and consistent! I have used several now, and must say I’m very happy with the results. They are consistent, deep colours and they are spot on matches, not only for the primer can they match, but, specifically, in the case of black and white, they **MATCH** the other brands of primer ( save Games Workshop) that I use.
Ease of use, 5/5 (I love dropper bottle style paints, less waste)
Consistency: 5/5 ( Didn’t have one clog, or colour change between bottles with the same name)
Value: 6/5 ( 2.99/3.25 for inks, for 18ml paint is a steal!)
Quality: 5/5 (I used it as a brush on primer, with an airbrush and brushed over various colours already on a model. Excellent performance all the way around)
Overall rating: 5.25/5

Yep, you heard it right. There has been speculation for quite a while, especially when the 5th edition rulebook was no longer available on the GW website around May 27. I got official word today from multiple sources that  said to expect a summer release, most likely mid July. No word on official prices yet, starter box contents or a special edition, but keep your eyes peeled for more information in the coming weeks.

Just took a sift through GW’s main website looking for Apocalypse Reloaded (which IS getting a price change) and some model reference images I needed, and realized that not only is it missing, but so is the .. wait for it.. *5th* edition rulebook, among a list of smaller items and bit kits that were once there.

Yep, nowhere to be found on the website, the essentials page even states “…Warhammer 40,000 products available; from essentials such as the Warhammer 40,000 Rulebook and…” but alas, it’s nowhere to be found. Same thing that happened to the Grey Knight boxes, as well as the sisters unit boxes before codex redo, or model redoing. So, is it July/August, or Nov/Dec release. Bets anyone?

I’d also like to point out a few of the major price hikes that will be going into effect, sadly, while I am on the GW page at this point.

Current Tau Codex: 24.75. As of June 1: 33.00

Current Black Templar Codes: 24.75. As of June 1: 33.00

Current Land Raider: 66.00. As of June 1: 74.25

Storm Raven: 66.00. As of June 1: 82.50

So, I found a way to make some great looking, very inexpensive terrain!
Do you tire of terrain simply being books under the green mat to simply make square hills?
You know you want buildings, and lots of them! Two, three and four levels, to make that table pop!
Inexpensive you say? Yes, I did!!

Here is a rundown of the components (items are purchased from Walmart, which by far is the best pricing for the components) with their prices ( in US dollars) not including tax.

Core items:
– roll of 3/4″ masking tape, .77
– Eilene’s Tacky Glue, medium size bottle, 1.77
– Foamcore sheet(s) 20″x30″ plain white, 1.98

Additional items needed:
– cutting mat
– box cutter, and spare blades
– exacto knife and spare blades
– 24″ metal ruler
– 12″ metal ruler

Now comes a bit of mathing skill. In order to maximize the amount of buildings that can be made from the sheet, grab a bit or scrap paper.

The sheet is 20″x30″, and by doing the math, I can create (2) two floor buildings with an 7″x10″ base floor footprint and the second floor being 5″x10″.
Factoring the full size of the sheet, you will make cuts on the long side, so the strips will be 20″ long, by the various widths to make walls and floors.
Subtracting the two floor sizes from the full sheet width, you are left with 18″. Because I am making the walls 3″ high, you are then left with six 3″ strips.

Each of the strips are 20″ long.

Proceed to make the floor pieces by cutting the 7″ and the 5″ sections in half, they are then the sizes of 7″x10 and 5″x10″.

To make the walls, measure the 3″ strips into pieces that are 6.5″ long. This will give you three wall pieces, with one inch left. Repeat 2x for a total of six pieces (four are needed for each building)

To make the front of the building ( the 10″ side) cut one 20″ strip in half. This makes the front wall for each of the building floors. Repeat twice for a total of four front walls, one for each level of the building.

Proceed to assembly.

Place one floor in front of you and glue the wall onto the edge. Follow the flying with taping to reinforce the edge.

Repeat process as many time as necessary to build each of the levels, and reinforce the joints.

Then, add the smaller, second floor on top of the first floor. Glue the two together, reinforcing the joint with tape yet again.

Repeat as necessary to make the building the final size.

Cover all foam showing with tape before priming at all to prevent the foam from being eaten by spray paint, and to create smooth edges.

Cut windows from the foam as you see fit with a square base as a template to ensure continuity and straight lines when making these. Ensure these are taped up as well after the fact.

Prime as you wish.


Images all used without permission from Forgeworld WebsiteGW, FW, Forgeworld.

Working Conversion List for Painting

Posted: March 26, 2012 in Commisison Painter, Commission Painting, Fantasy Flight, Games Workshop, Gaming, Gaming, How To, Malifaux, Miniature Gaming, painting, Privateer Press, Removing paint, Resource List, Space Hulk, Stripping miniatures, True Scale Space Marine, Uncategorized, Warhammer, warhammer 40, warhammer 40k, warhammer fantasy, Wyrd Miniatures
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Ceramite White
Averland Sunset (Was Iyanden Darksun)
Jokaero Orange (Was Macharius Solar Orange)
Mephiston Red ( Was Mechrite Red)
Khorne Red (Was Scab Red)
Naggaroth Night
Daemonette Hide ( Was Hormagaunt Purple)
Kantor Blue (On chart labeled as Necron Abyss & Regal Blue)
Macragge Blue (Was Mordian Blue)
Caledon Sky (Was Enchanted Blue)
Stegadon Scale Green
Incubi Darkness
Caliban Green (Labeled as Dark Angels Green and Orkhide Shade)
Waaaagh! Flesh
Castellan Green (Was Catachan Green)
Death World Forest (Was Gretchin Green)
Zandri Dust
Steel Legion Drab ( Was Steel Legion Drab)
Bugmans Glow
Ratskin Flesh (Was Dwarf Flesh)
Mournfang Brown (Was Bestial Brown)
Rhinox Hide (Was Scorched Brown)
Dryad Bark
Mechanicus Standard Grey (Was Adeptus Battlegrey)
Celestus Grey (Was Astronomican Grey)
Abaddon Black (Was Chaos Black)
Rakarth flesh (Was Dheneb Stone)
The Fang (Was Fenris Grey)
Screamer Pink ( Was Warlock Purple)
Leadblecher (metal) (Was Boltgun Metal)
Balthasar Gold (metal)
Screaming Bell (metal)
Warplock Bronze (metal) (Was Tin Bitz)

White Scar (Was Skull White)
Yriel Yellow ( Was Yriel Yellow)
Flash gitz yellow (Was Sunburst Yellow)
Troll Slayer Orange (Was Blazing Orange)
Fire Dragon Bright
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Was Blood Red)
Wild Rider Red
Wazdakka Red (Was Red Gore)
Squig Orange
Xereus Purple (Was Liche Purple)
Genestealer Purple
Warpfiend Grey
Slaanesh Grey
Alaitoc blue
Hoeth blue
Altdorf Guard Blue (Was Ultramarines Blue)
Calgar blue
Teclis blue
Lothern blue (Was Ice Blue)
Sotek green (Was Hawk Turquoise)
Temple guard blue
Kabalite green
Sybarite green
Warpstone glow (Was Snot Green)
Moot green (Was Scorpion Green)
Warboss green (Was Goblin Green)
Skarsnik green
Loren Forest
Straken green
Nurgling green (Was Rotting Flesh)
Elysian green (Was Camo Green)
Ogryn camo
Ushabti Bone (Was Bleached Bone)
Screaming skull
Tallarn sand (Was Desert Yellow)
Karak stone (Was Kommando Khaki)
Cadian fleshstone (Was Tallarn Flesh)
Kislev Flesh (Was Elf Flesh)
Bestigor Flesh
Ungor Flesh
Skrag Brown (Was Vermin Brown)
Deathclaw Brown
Tau Light Ochre
Balor Brown (Was Snakebite Leather)
Zamesi Desert (Was Bubonic Brown)
Doombull Brown
Tuskigor Fur
Gorthor Brown
Baneblade Brown
Administratum grey
Eshin grey
Dark reaper
Thunderhawk blue
Skavenblight dinge
Stormvermin fur
Ulthuan grey
Pallid wych flesh
Russ grey
Fenrisian grey (Was Space Wolves Grey)
Pink horror
Emperors Children
Ironbreaker (metal)
Runefang steel (metal) (Was Mithril Silver)
Gehennas gold(metal) (Was Shining Gold)
Auric Armour(metal) (Was Burnished Gold)
Hashut Copper(metal) (Was Dwarf Bronze)
Sycorax Bronze(metal)
Brass Scorpion(metal)
Runelord Brass(metal)

Casandora Yellow
Fuegan Orange
Carroburg Crimson (Was Baal Red)
Druchii Violet (Was Leviathan Purple)
Drakenhof Nightshade
Coelia greenshade
Biel-tan green
Athonian camoshade
Seraphim Sepia (Was Gryphonne Sepia)
Reikland Fleshshade (Was Ogryn Flesh)
Agrax earthshade (Was Devlan Mud)
Nuln Oil (Was Badab Black)
Biel-Tan Green (Was Thraka Green)

Praxeti White
Hexos palesun
Lucius Lilac
Etherium blue
Skink blue
Hellion green
Underhive ash
Eldar Flesh
Tyrant Shell
Terminatus stone
Longbeard grey
Changling pink
Necron Compound
Golden Griffon

Lamenters yellow
Waywatcher Green
Guilliman blue

Mourn Mountain snow
Stirland Mud
Blackfire Eath
Armageddon Dust
Lustrian Undergrowth

Lahmian Medium
‘Ard coat
Imperial Primer
Liquid Green stuff